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Comparison Garden

A research project of The Lighthouse

February 2026

The Biodiversity Comparison Plots are one of the first active initiatives of The Lighthouse, exploring how different soil-care practices influence plant health, soil biology, insects, and overall ecological resilience.

This small-scale research project uses three identical plots, each planted with the same indicator species. By observing how the plants respond under different conditions, we can “read” the soil and understand what it needs to regenerate.

 

 

 

PLOT 1: CONVENTIONAL TILLED SOIL

This plot represents a common gardening and farming approach. Existing vegetation is removed and the soil is turned before planting. Tillage creates a clean seedbed and reduces competition from weeds, but it also disturbs soil structure, fungi, earthworms, and other organisms living underground.

Questions we are exploring:
How well do the plants grow?
How many weeds return?
How much watering and maintenance are required?
What happens to the soil over time?

PLOT 2: HEAVY MULCH

In this plot, the soil is covered with a thick layer of organic material. The mulch protects the soil from sun, wind, and heavy rain while helping retain moisture and suppress weeds. As the mulch breaks down, it feeds soil life and returns organic matter to the ground.

Questions we are exploring:
Does mulch reduce watering needs?
Does it suppress weeds?
Does it improve plant growth?
How does the soil change beneath the mulch?

PLOT 3: LIVING ROOTS

In this plot, the existing plants were left in place and the soil was not disturbed. Small planting areas were created for the crops while most of the vegetation and root systems remained alive. This approach follows a key principle of regenerative agriculture: keep living roots in the soil whenever possible.

Living roots feed soil organisms, help hold soil together, and support underground ecosystems throughout the growing season.

Questions we are exploring:
Can crops grow successfully alongside existing vegetation?
How does the soil stay covered and protected?
What differences can we see in moisture, biodiversity, and plant health?

WHY THIS MATTERS

Healthy soil is one of our most important natural resources. It stores water, supports biodiversity, grows food, and helps regulate climate. Around the world, farmers, gardeners, and land stewards are exploring different ways to improve soil health while reducing the need for chemicals, fuel, and intensive cultivation.

This garden is not about proving one method is right or wrong. It is an invitation to observe, ask questions, and learn from the results.

These observations will help shape future educational programs, community workshops, and regenerative practices at The Lighthouse’s long-term location.

Follow the Project

We invite the public to follow along here on the website, Instagram and Linkedin as the plots evolve. Updates will include photos, videos, observations, and reflections on what the land teaches us. 

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Measuring the plots,
March 2026

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UPDATE
July 2026


 

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Comparison Plot Review

 

This project did not go as planned-but that's usually how it goes when trying something new, right? 

I started this project with the intention of comparing the soil in three side by side plots, each section cared for by a different method, each section planted with the same seeds. I wanted to learn by doing and see if there was an ideal way to grow a backyard garden, and possibly use the best method scaled up to use in larger spaces too, for me to learn for myself, and to share the information with others.

 

I learned so much doing this project, even though it feels like it was ended before it really had a chance to begin. 

 

A brief background: (I promise its relevant to the project review) I like to read about topics like gardening and soil structure, and I enjoy learning about the science involved. I enjoyed this project because it is fun and exciting to do things to feel the dirt and notice all the differences.

 

I am already a newbie gardner on my own time in my personal space. I have small above ground boxes and have the dirt covered with a thick layer of hay for mulch around the plants, following the advice from books I've read by Ruth Stout. She was a hugely influential gardener and author known for her "no-dig" or "mulch gardening" method. Her approach was essentially: keep a thick, permanent layer of mulch (hay, straw, leaves) over the garden year-round, plant right into it, and never till or dig again.

 

(Her most famous book is How to Have a Green Thumb Without an Aching Back — that's the one you're remembering. She also wrote Gardening Without Work and The Ruth Stout No-Work Garden Book. She was a wonderfully direct and witty writer, and her method is still beloved by no-dig and permaculture gardeners today.)

 

I start seeds inside my house and add them into the garden as seedlings, or buy small plants from the garden center (like lavender) to add to the boxes. 

 

For my comparison plot project, I wouldn't be doing things as I do at home. Being in the Netherlands, it is a short growing season, so I put a lot of thought into the plants that I would be planting from seed into these comparison plots. I planned on sowing them directly into the soil to better learn how the plants grow depending on the soil. 

 

At the end of 2025, I had the idea to do this project myself. Since I do not have any land of my own to use, I wrote an overview of the project and sent numerous emails entailing the details and asking if anyone had a small section that I could use for this experiment for the season of 2026. 

 

I got in touch with de Viermarken zorgboerderij in Enschede, NL in Februrary 2026. (What it is: An ecological care farm (zorgboerderij / participatieboerderij) on the northwest edge of Enschede. Approach: They don't offer "care" in a clinical sense — they offer guidance and meaningful daily activity alongside people with diverse backgrounds. Activities: Growing organic vegetables, baking fresh pies and cakes, making jams, and keeping free-range chickens. Everything is made and sold on-site.

Farm shop: A biological/regional farm shop (streekboerderij-winkel) where the products are sold. Website: viermarken.nl) 

They allowed me to use a section on the back of one of their fields, measured 3 meters x 9 meters. 

 

The first thing I did was to put a thick mulch layer of old hay over section 1 in February 2026, wanting that section to have as much time as possible for the magic of the dirt to happen underneath. 

Section 2 was planned to have a chop and drop layer, and section 3 was to be the ¨conventional¨ section, stripped down to bare dirt and weeded continually throughout the season around crops. 

 

My plan was to strip the soil for section 3 (the ¨conventional¨ bare dirt plot) right after doing the chop and drop of section 2 and then planting. 

 

However, this is where real life stumbles into the equation. 

 

Mid April, the gardeners at Viermarken contacted me saying that they would like to mow the garden plots 2 and 3 next to the mulch in section 1, as they were worried the weeds/grass/flowers that were there would go to seed and contaminate the nearby field. 

That specific week they contacted me, there were still hard frosts in the night, and it wasn't quite time for me to plant seeds. 

 

The general timeline in the Netherlands to plant seeds outside is late April, early May, after the last frost. It is common to wait for IJsheiligen (Ice Saints) — after May 11–15. IJsheiligen (Ice Saints) is a traditional weather lore period in much of Europe, including the Netherlands. It refers to May 11–15, named after four saints whose feast days fall on those dates:

 

May 11 — St. Servatius (Servaas)

May 12 — St. Pancratius (Pancraas)

May 13 — St. Boniface (Bonifaas)

May 14 — St. Sophia (Sofia)

The belief is that these days bring a final cold snap or even a light frost, after which the danger of frost is truly over for the year. It's not a myth in the sense of being made up — it's centuries of observation that late frosts can happen in mid-May. But it's also not a guaranteed meteorological rule; climate change has made late frosts less common in many parts of the Netherlands, and some years it's safe to plant earlier. It's a traditional guideline rooted in saint's feast days and historical weather patterns — useful as a rule of thumb, but not a hard law of nature. Many Dutch gardeners still use it as a safe bet before putting tender plants outside

 

The rule is: don't plant frost-sensitive crops (tomatoes, peppers, beans, courgettes, etc.) outside until after IJsheiligen, which runs from May 11 to May 15. The traditional belief is that the last possible night frost can occur during this period. After May 15, the risk of a hard frost is considered low enough to plant tender crops outdoors.

 

In practice, many Dutch gardeners wait until mid-May or even late May depending on the local microclimate and the actual weather forecast. For hardier crops (onions, carrots, peas, spinach), you can plant much earlier — from March or April.

 

I assured the gardeners that I would cut/remove weeds the following week. Even though there was still the danger of frost, I decided I would do the chop and drop in section 2, and then I could start the work on removing the top layer of soil in section 3 to ready the plots for planting and making sure nothing went to seed and ruined the crop in the nearby field. 

 

However, that weekend, the weeds and flowers in sections 2 and 3 were mowed by the tractor anyway. Obviously there was a miscommunication somewhere!

 

At this point, I considered scrapping the whole project, as then I wasn't able to do the chop and drop anymore. 

Also the point of my project was to be measuring the soil differences and to have 2 of the three sections run over repeatedly with a heavy tractor already compacted the earth and would make an unfair comparison to the mulch layer, which was not run over with the tractor. 

 

When I visited the plot to stare at the sections and try to decide what to do, to my dismay, I saw that a thick layer of mud had been kicked up by the tractor and it had sprayed on top of more than half of the mulch layer. This was definitely a low point as I stood there, looking at all three sections, feeling like everything had been ruined before it had even started. 

 

I decided to continue, that the differences in the treatment of the soil from here forward would still be something worth noting, even though it was not the way I had planned. 

 

For section 2, the original chop and drop section, I decided to change into ¨living roots¨, the theory being to leave the existing plants, cut short in the area where you plant the seed to give it space to get sunlight to grow, and otherwise leave the rest. 

This method is new to me and I thought it interesting and a good fit as a replacement for chop and drop. 

 

I spent 3 or 4 days in a row, two to three hours each day, removing and tilling the top soil of section 3. The weed layer was thick and strong, and I was doing the whole section myself with just a small shovel. It was A LOT of work.

 

Once section 3 was done and the dirt was bare, it was perfectly timed that the frost had ended which meant it was time for planting! 

I had in depth planning plan for which seeds would go where and why, and my daughter and I planted all three sections with seeds from the same packet in the same place in the plots on the same day. 

 

Now, this was the most interesting part of the project, for me, the planting. The actual planting of the seeds, with my finger poking the seed into the ground was such a different feeling for each section. 

 

After first (again) weeding section 3 bare, the planting of the seeds into the bare dirt was ¨normal¨, familiar, pushing the seed into the dry, compact dirt, covering the small hole with surrounding dirt. 

 

In section 2 (living roots section),it felt strange planting the seeds. The feeling of the dirt here is hard to describe, it felt ¨open¨. The roots of the other plants obviously had expanded into the dirt and held everything apart, but no holes looking down from the top. I trimmed a small circle in the grass and flowers close to the ground around where I planned to plant the seed. When I pushed the seed into the ground I could really feel the fluffy dirt around the network of roots already there. 

 

For section 1, the mulch layer, it was as I had expected (and have experienced before), it felt damp and condensed but not as compact as section 3. 

 

After I planted, I visited the plots 2x in the following week and the next to water and keep up with the weeds in the conventional plot. 

The third week, I went to visit the plots, and to my dismay, saw that a tractor had driven over the plots numerous times. The tire marks were deep, going over and through my carefully planted sections. 

This time, I knew my experiment was over. There wasn't a way that I could recover these delicate seedlings and the compacted ground.

 

Some ¨learning moments¨ for me that I got from this project-the size I proposed for planting, WAY too large. Had the project continued, I know I would have had difficulty keeping up with weeding the bare dirt area, and I have a suspicion that the other plants would have so much room that maybe they would have taken over the living roots section. Honestly, I don't know what would have happened, that's just a guess. 

I also learned that I need to be very clear with the physical boundaries of a project like this! 

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